This was an adventure for the books (or the blogs in my case). The Zimmerman clan decided to spend eight days in the waters west of the San Juans, in Canada’s Gulf Islands. Our expectations were high, and they were exceeded at almost every turn. Some numbers:
- 8 days
- 7 nights
- 130 nautical miles
- 3 San Juan Islands visited
- 6 Gulf Islands visited
- Countless starfish terrorized (temporarily)
day 1: Bellingham to stuart is. (via west beach, orcas Is.)
Boat prep deserves its own separate entry, so I’ll spare the details here. Spirits were high and the boat was ready for us to depart promptly at 0900 to catch winds and currents. Leaving is arguably the most stressful part of any passage, and we were off to a rocky start when our first mate had to run home for a necessary medication. No matter, I of course had built in a slight buffer in our itinerary. After loading everything, Wildfire departed Squalicum Harbor at roughly 1100 bound for adventure.
It didn’t take long for it to find us. The shaft adjustment caused the vibration from the prop to sound much louder than it had previously, but we got the OK from our shipwright and decided to motor on. Not even an hour into our journey came the next hiccup: the damned bilge pump. I had spent hours correcting the issue, determining that a kink in the exit hose with clogs was the issue. (I even returned the new one because I incorrectly assumed I had fixed it.) We raised the sails and Katie made a quick trim to our flooring to access the bilge.
“Can’t we just manually bilge it every so often when we run the engine?”
Indeed we could! Trying my best not to let frustration get the better of me, I set my sights on catching a sloop ahead of us in Hales Passage – which we would later learn was in fact Islander, who we would run into more than once in the Gulf Islands.
With wind dying in Rosario Straight we resumed motoring, making landfall at West Beach Resort on the NW side of Orcas by roughly 1430. We grabbed a mooring ball and headed ashore for a cold beer and ice cream. After a refreshing jaunt around the grounds, we got underway at the original time I had planned to depart (1600) and made it to Stuart just in time to set the hook before dinner. It was calm and lovely in Prevost Harbor and we tucked in for the night.
day 2: Stuart Is. (USA) to Porltand Is. (CAN) via Bedwell Harbor (S. Pender Is.)
The following morning we headed to the county dock to visit the untended and adorable “store” just up the road, which turned out to be infested with mosquitos. “Where are they coming from?” was interrupted by shouts of “RUN!” as they attempted to drain us dry. After picking up our essential Stuart Island gear, we headed back and prepped for entry into Canada – our first ever by private vessel.
A mere five nautical miles – that’s all it takes to hop from Stuart to the customs dock in Bedwell Harbor on South Pender Island. We gobbled the last of our bacon in BLT form (because it can’t cross the border, pre-stomach anyway) and made it into the picturesque setting of Bedwell in less than an hour. We tied up at the dock and I headed to the phone booths and called in. I’ve been through customs in various countries countless times, but I was very anxious for this one. I had no idea what to expect. Well that was a waste – it couldn’t have been easier! After a five minute conversation, we were cleared and welcomed to touch land in Canada. Huzzah!
There was a little wind to catch in the Swanson Channel on our way to Portland Is., so we threw up the canvas. It was very short lived, and within half an hour it was back down again and we were motoring in the calm and sunny waters. We made it to Princess Cove on Portland Is. and had the anchor set by 1500. We loaded up the day pack and were ready to explore our first of the Gulf Islands.
Princess Margaret Marine Park is a gem. The trails are wide and even, and they crisscross the island. We hiked to the northern end to check out the other gorgeous anchorages and then headed back to make dinner. STEAKS. I got to use our Magma grill to great affect while Katie prepped the sides. Even Ian and Gemma were impressed with the fare – it was fantastic. After getting the kids to bed (always a raucous routine), Katie and I enjoyed a stunning sunset while sipping on Tropical Dark n’ Stormies, our signature drink of the trip.
day 3: Portland Is. to Montague Harbor (Galiano Is.) via Russel Is.
The following morning I can best describe as magical. From sunrise through departure, not a breath of wind touched the waters. As a sailor I would normally not welcome such conditions. But in this cove, with kayaks and my 7-yr old son, I could not have asked for better. The tide was nearly completely out when we took to the water, and the shallow floor of the cove was simply awesome to glide across. Starfish, crabs, fishes of all kinds, and even a shipwreck came into view as we glided on top of the still waters.
Katie and Gemma went with Ian later on for a hike (after what could have been a disastrous phone incident, but all was well later) while I continued with my paddled craft. I then decided it was about time for a mid-morning nap, which I took in the hammock slung between our forestay and mast on the bow of the Wildfire. It was glorious.
Then it was time to catch the flood and head to Russell Is., which was a homestead established by Hawaiians in the 1800s. We rounded the western end and were readying the anchor when who should we see but Islander again!
Their dinghy was tied, but no signs of life aboard. We went ashore, and just as we were tying up to the dock, who should appear but Mike Reed! He welcomed us to the Gulf Islands and let us know that two more CYC boats were parked for the afternoon here as well. There’s something thrilling about meeting someone you know in a completely remote location, and it certainly put a spring in my step. We hiked to the eastern end of the island and visited the old homestead, then Ian and I took a chilly dip in the waters just below.
After tidepooling and starfish hunting we rowed on back. We took Night Heron by surprise as we floated past, hailing Deb & Mary, and Mike & Karen on Islander before getting back aboard Wildfire. We didn’t get a chance to hang with Judy & Mike on Shockwave unfortunately, but so cool to see yet another boat you know in distant waters.
We had another leg to do before day’s end off to Montague harbor. With sunlight waning we departed north with the dying flood to Montague Harbor on Galiano Is. The conditions were simply delightful, sun playing off the rolling waves in a beautiful archipelago. Arrival at the entrance to Payne Bay was greeted with the arrival of whales off the port bow. We were confused at first why a bunch of boats were randomly grouping in the middle of the channel until we spotted spouts.
We nestled in at anchor just outside the marina and rode into shore. The docks had a mixture of northern and tropical feel, and a very active store and restaurant greeted us as we strode ashore. It was obviously time for ice cream (no matter the hour, frankly) and we patiently waited for a table at the Crane & Robin, and it was one of the most delightful meals I’ve had in recent memory. The setting felt Caribbean, but still distinctly PNW, a perfect temperature, behaved kids (how??)…and one of the most delicious chowders I’ve ever tasted.
We rowed back to enjoy a stunning sunset amongst 200+ boats, this one taking the prize.
We soaked in one of the most glorious sunsets of the summer and then settled down for a peaceful night’s rest.
Day 4: Montague to Wallace Is.
In the morning, we used the dying embers of our dinghy’s battery to make it halfway across the harbor before hitching it to my kayak for the remaining trek against wind and current. But we made it to the Provincial Park, and Ian and I hunted crabs and creatures in tide pools while Katie and Gemma went for a hike through the park. We convened back on the beach and proceeded to head back to Wildfire by way of the main dock, where we grabbed some engine oil and last minute provisions (read: ice cream) before departing late in the morning.
It’s a pretty short jaunt up the Trincomali Channel up to Wallace and we made the trek in a little over an hour. We were a little nervous pulling into Princess Cove (another one!) as it’s a tight anchorage with a ‘Mediterranean Stern-tie’ method of anchoring. For the uninitiated, this involves dropping your hook and keeping the engine in reverse while you run a line in your dinghy to a chain mounted to the rock wall behind you. Katie had a plan, and she has become our anchor master. We were able to pull it off without consequence, and it was actually a lot easier than we thought it would be.
Once tied up, we had a nice relaxing lunch aboard (while fighting off the late summer wasp population). Katie went to take our pup Luna ashore, while the kids and I decided to test the waters in the heat of the day by jumping overboard. Although still very refreshing, it wasn’t the breath-stealing coldness that our PNW waters usually offer, so we had a blast jumping overboard time and again.
After relaxing for a bit, we went ashore to see what Wallace had to offer. Spoiler alert: this serene little island has so much in fact that we decided to alter our itinerary and stay an extra day! With the sun going down, we headed back aboard after checking out Conover Cove. We snuggled down with full bellies after dinner to soak in another amazing sunset.
Day 5: Wallace Is.
The following day with no boat to move meant we were ready to explore the land. “Why do we always walk so far?!” Ian asked. The landscape, neat coves and beautiful views answered that question! We trekked all the way to Chivers Point on the northwestern end of the island, where we were promised warmer waters. While that wasn’t exactly the case, we did get a grand tour of the island and visited the old resort located near Conover Cove on the way back. We made a plan to decorate and add our boat’s driftwood plaque to the mix the following morning.
Returning to our boat who should we see but Islander, yet again! Mike & Karen had pulled in right next to us at the anchorage. We were ready for more swimming, although this time I opted to don Katie’s wetsuit and snorkel gear. What a difference this made, and I was able to stay in the water for a full hour. It was so fun gliding over the rocks and shallows that hours before had been exposed at low tide. Fascinating to see all the critters coming out when the waters returned. We also watched Gemma, our four-year-old, kayak independently for the first time. And what a pro! She had total control and could get herself anywhere she wanted to, while making sure to stay nice and close to the mothership. Yet another stunning sunset capped the evening, and we had to tighten our stern line with tide changes and increasing winds.
Day 6: Wallace Is. to Otter Bay (N. Pender Is.)
We had to leave early to catch the current, which is significant in the Trincomali. Unfortunately the winds were blowing heavily out of the south, creating a choppy and uncomfortable sea state against the flood. We motored south into the spray, and while the crew was very comfortable down below, I was in spray gear and sipping coffee to stay toasty. There were several boats beating down the channel as we motored, and I have to admit I was a tad jealous, as there was a phenomenal amount of wind. But we’re pleasure cruising, and with small children that usually means getting from A to B in the quickest and most comfortable manner possible. (Hence why I relish my Thursday night racing!)
Otter Bay Resort boasts not one, but TWO heated swimming pools, a marina, mooring balls, and plenty of protected anchorage. We had been telling the kids all week that we were going to swim, and I phoned the marina to see if they had any availability. They regretted to inform us that they did not. No matter; we’d anchor and then just head over and grab a day pass or something so we could swim.
While hunting for a good spot, we ran into yet ANOTHER CYC boat – Merlin! Owned by our friends Patrick and Mariko, we were excited to get our littles together for a playdate. How special it was not only bumping into people we know in a remote location, but another family cruising! They weren’t aboard at the time we arrived, so we called the marina to arrange plans to dinghy to the dock and swim.
The look on little Ian’s face when we had to tell him the heartbreaking news that we would NOT be allowed to swim was almost too much to bear. He had been SO excited about this aspect of the trip, and he broke down into full-body weeping. But he rallied really hard, and with a stiff upper lip we traversed the bay in search of provisions and lunch. We were further disappointed (read: angered) when we saw not a single soul in either of the two pools. We grabbed some burgers and headed back to the boat, saltier than when we landed.
But the Merlin crew was back aboard, so we paddled over to say hello! They informed us that there was a really neat little museum and hike over on the point, so we paddled over to check it out. It was honestly one of the neatest little museums I’ve ever been in, simply for the fact that it was so interactive! It was a time capsule of the late 19th century, and we got a chance to touch and play with things such as the foot-pump organ. We enjoyed a short jaunt to the end of the point that used to be a resort, and then headed back to Wildfire for dinner. The overcast skies reminded us that summer does not last forever and we cozied up down below to spend the night.
Day 7: Otter Bay to Port Browning (N. Pender Is.)
Still in search of a pool, we called Port Browning Marina, located on the other side of Pender, to see if they had availability. Miraculously, on a Saturday night in August at the last minute, they did! We had a nice breakfast visit with Merlin and also with Jim & Kelly from Azulita (the fifth CYC boat we ran into!) before pulling the hook and motoring around the north end of Pender to Port Browning. I must have finally read the current atlas correctly as we got a nice boost on the way down.
The skies cleared as we turned the shallow point into the bay, and we arrived at the dock just in time for lunch. Naturally we had to get to the pool ASAP, and Ian and Gemma were jumping and splashing in no time. Our poor puppy unfortunately had some tummy troubles which would plague us until returning to our house in Bellingham, but she managed admirably as best she could.
And then we proceeded to do what many of us take for granted as a daily routine: we showered. It had been over a week since partaking in this ritual, and by this point we weren’t even aware of how grimy we all were. The salt and dirt left our bodies and we celebrated by getting ice cream (of course!) and taking a stroll along the shore, which we dubbed “Shipwreck Beach”:
Upon our return, we declared it dinnertime and hit up the local restaurant at the resort. We had a fantastic meal of local mussels, poutine, pizza, and steak salad, and we enjoyed a lovely chat with a cruising couple sitting next to us. Their kids were in the 20s now, but still enjoyed coming out on the boat with them. There’s hope yet!
The night was not as peaceful as I’d hoped. Katie and I each had to get up several times to walk Luna to shore, which ended up being pointless because she couldn’t hold it much past our slip. Many a trip and bucket splash were needed. My alarm was set for 5:45a as we needed to catch slack before the ebb began to really flow into the sound the next morning.
Day 8: Port Browing (CAN) to Bellingham (USA) via Clark Is.
As is always the case, I feel like we should have left earlier. But it was a beautiful morning, and it really felt like fall for the first time this year. We managed to scoot out easily enough, but once we got to the end of Saturna, my luck with the current ran out. We dropped to an appalling 3.7 kts as I fought the water flowing past Waldron, and I grew increasingly frustrated as I passed what I thought was the turning point, only to look down and see that SOG had not improved. I was initially going to stop for a walk on Sucia, but even Fossil Bay proved too far north to be worthwhile as the current continued to push us south.
Finally we passed the half-way point on Orcas and were now running with the ebb on our way instead to Clark Is. For all my frustrations, we realistically only added 30 minutes to what was in total a 7 hour transit from Port Browning back to Bellingham. We grabbed a mooring ball, called US customs, and in yet another shockingly easy conversation we were cleared back into the US! We ran Luna and the kids on shore for a bit before heading out on our last leg.
My frustrations turned into elations on our run down Lummi Is., where I was now besting 8 kts in the ebb. It slacked just as we rounded the southern end, and then we caught the beginning of the flood back in Bellingham Bay. We had perfect weather and conditions, and it was at this point that Katie and I teared up, reflecting on how lucky we are to get to experience something like this adventure. I could have put up the sails for the last little bit in the bay, but you know you’ve had a good trip when you’re just ready to get back home.
And that we did. Gramma Sue met us in the harbor to hang with the kiddos and dog while we cleaned up the Wildfire, which had performed most beautifully the entire time. We can’t wait until the next cruise!
boatingham 